San José, or Chepe, as known by Ticos, is hardly the London or Paris of Central America. It is commonly regarded as a dangerous city, with little or no charm. It can certainly be said that the architecture leaves a lot to be desired, apart from perhaps the Teatro Nacional located in the centre. There is no doubt that it lacks personality and feeling, and in fact it does not feel like a capital city at all.
It is now the first week of December, Chepe's busiest time of year. I spent yesterday (Monday) afternoon, Christmas shopping in the centre. Unfortunately though, this wasn't exactly the bright idea that I imagined it would be. I have never experienced the city so busy before. I was already regretting my decision early in the afternoon after having nearly knocked over a toddler.
Something that I had never witnessed until last week were the large platforms with armed policeman looking down at the crowds, dotted around the centre of the city. When I first saw them I thought a big crime had taken place, but apparently the 'platforms' are normal for this time of year, due to the sheer number of shoppers that take over the centre of the city and the following rise in crime.
One of the reasons behind the shopping sprees - apart from normal Xmas shopping/preparations - is what is called the 'aguilnaldo', which is the word for Christmas Bonus. In Costa Rica, companies are legally required to give employees double their normal salary in December. Sadly I do not receive this bonus as I have not been working for 6 months and I am a trainee/intern.
Despite the crowds and the frantic Christmas shopping, there does seem to be something a bit more endearing about Chepe at this time of year. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to the Mercado Central (central market), where I found a strange mixture of fish heads, various offal, flowers, souvenirs, and lots and lots of Tinsel. Maybe San José is finally growing on me...
